A personal travel journal

Places I’ve loved. Tips I’d pass on.

Honest stories and useful details from journeys taken solo, with friends and family, and as a couple.

Hoi An lanterns reflected in flooded streets
Featured story

Vietnam, south to north

From Saigon’s scooter-filled streets to Hoi An, Hue and a kayaking day in Lan Ha Bay. These are my notes from travelling Vietnam mostly by overnight train.

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Hello, I’m Tara

Travel looks different every time I go.

I travel in all sorts of ways: solo through rural southern China, with friends in Jordan, with family in Marrakech and for two in Lisbon. I started this journal to share the places I loved, what I’d do differently and the practical details I wish I’d known.

More about Tara
Tara exploring Petra on horseback

Practical Travel Tips

Find smart advice on navigating new places. Our tips and hacks are tried-and-tested, designed for real-world travel.

  • Covering where bargains can be had
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Camels at sunset

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Dive into our stories sharing highlights and things to avoid to help you plan with confidence.

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Catch a glimpse of our latest adventures.

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Next in the journal

Six more journeys are taking shape as the photographs and notes come together.

Guest Traveller Stories

Stories and interviews from travelling friends about their adventures.

I have had many adventures and it has been great to share a number of them with Tara! Pleased to share places that I have loved with others here.
Jacobijn
One of my favourite things is to explore new countries on my own and I look forward to sharing tips with others.
Cliona
I travel a huge amount for work which has taken me well off the beaten path and love to discover new and interesting places.
Cath
I've always enjoyed travel and now we have more flexibility and time are having new adventures in later life and happy to share tips that really make a difference when exploring new places.
Leona

Inspiring adventures for every kind of traveller

Our Travel Story

Tara Travels was born from a love of exploring the world and sharing the thrills, challenges, and joys of travel. As well as having new experiences, I have been learning more about photography over recent years so it has been a real joy to aim to capture the spirit of these trips.

As well as my own journeys, I am planning to have guest contributions from travelling friends to hear about their adventures.

Travel definitely isn't one-size-fits-all so whether you're dreaming of a backpacking trip at 60, organising a family ski trip, or planning an epic group adventure, I'd like these pages to fuel your wanderlust!

Welcome!

A warm welcome to the site, which is very much a work in progress, but a place I am building to document journeys and recommendations for friends old and new. Do hope that you find it helpful!

Tara exploring Petra on horseback
Tara exploring Petra on horseback
Man on pedal fishing boat in the sea off Vietnam

Destination

Vietnam

Fisherman off Cat Ba

RouteSaigon to Cat Ba
Getting aroundMostly overnight trains
HighpointKayaking Lan Ha Bay

Arrival

Having arrived on the overnight flight from London, then spent the warm day exploring Saigon including dodging scooters and visiting the Reunification Palace, we were footsore by tea time and what a joy it was to have a soothing foot massage. My travelling companion had downloaded the Luxe app which has refreshingly short edits of what to do in key cities and the brilliant and amazingly cheap massage salon was their recommendation. An hour's massage was £11 and those ladies really know what they are doing. We both nodded off in the softly lit room and awoke refreshed to pick up our bags and head to catch the overnight train to Nha Trang.

Scooter jam in Ho Chi Minh City
Scooter jam in Ho Chi Minh City

Highlights

We did the very popular route but travelled south to north which seems rarer – certainly the guide books always go the other way around. We didn't spend long in Saigon which was I think the right call, leaving us more time to explore elsewhere.

I loved

  • Hoi An – still retains its beauty and charm
  • Hue – real sense of history
  • Kayak day in Lan Ha Bay – see below
Hoi An lanterns mirrored in flooded streets
Hoi An looked particularly stunning as the lanterns were mirrored after heavy rains had flooded the streets
Sunset from the island we kayaked to
Sunset from the island we kayaked to

Highpoint

We travelled to Cat Ba and while disappointingly they are busy reclaiming land there so the beach is both out of bounds and covered in diggers, my friend found a kayaking day out on Lan Ha Bay via Seek Sophie which turned out to be the best part of the trip.

1 Day Hidden Lan Ha Bay Cruise | Secret Spots, Crabbing & Beach BBQ

Venture Off the Beaten Path: Secret Caves, Kayaking, and a Sunset Beach BBQ

seeksophie.com/experiences/6722

With our marvellous guide Chans Tien Anh who had grown up locally among the fishing community, and was passionate about wildlife and nature we went out in a boat, then picked up our individual kayaks and explored the Gulf of Tonkin which is the northern portion of the South China Sea.

It was utterly stunning and tranquil to glide between the karsks at our own pace.

Karst views around Cat Ba
Epic views in the tranquil setting of Cat Ba

We explored caves and our guide caught fish and crabs, then pulled our boats up to the beach of an island where we barbecued the haul for dinner, with potatoes roasted in foil, as the sun set.

On the way home, we called into one of the floating fishing villages which was fascinating. It was an extraordinarily memorable day and really showed the beauty of Lan Ha and Cat Ba beyond the extensive development activity.

Our guide Chans preparing dinner
Our wonderful guide Chans preparing dinner.
The floating fishing village
The floating fishing village

The route

South to north, mostly by overnight train: Saigon, Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi, then out to Cat Ba for Lan Ha Bay.

Best time to go

Vietnam is long enough that it never has one single season. The north is driest and coolest from October to April; the central coast is best from February to August, and can flood heavily in the autumn; the south is dry from December to April. Travelling south to north in November worked well for us, and meant Hoi An after the rains.

NorthOct – Apr, cool and dry
CentreFeb – Aug, dry and hot
SouthDec – Apr, dry season

Food highlights

There are so many it is hard to pick! Such fresh flavours, wonderful seafood including lobster, and more often chunky prawns, amazing coffee. Try the egg coffee when in Hanoi it is a like a custard and quite delicious. Iced coffees on hot days became quite addictive.

Coconut iced coffee in Nha Trang
Coconut iced coffee in Nha Trang was divine

Best buys

On trips like this, exploring in hot countries, you need to have great footwear. I bought walking sandals specifically for this trip and having scoured websites went for the Corfu from Hotter which were just perfect. Supremely comfortable for all day walking, available in a wide fitting, the back strap makes them far more suitable than Birkinstocks, but they are similar in their simple design. I then wore them for many more trips before buying a second pair as I love them so much!

hotter.com — Corfu sandals

In Hanoi I picked up some great black fishermen's trousers for £20 that instead of being tied at the waist are sewn like that and they have become my travelling trousers of choice and with a linen vest, I lived in these and my sandals in China, Marrakesh and Jordan.

Vietnamese railway station

Travel tips

We took two overnight trains which were great. Note that often these will arrive at 6am and you usually can't check in to your room till much later like 2pm. Because accommodation is great value we decided to book for the previous night meaning we did have morning room access which I would highly recommend. We really appreciated it.

Also we took the advice from the Vietnam Oracle train website and opted for the 4 beds sleepers and booking the top bunks as less rail noise and think that is sound advice. With silicon ear plugs we slept well.

4-Bed Sleeper

The most comfortable class on Vietnam's trains, these sleeper compartments have 4 beds in a private cabin arranged in two rows of bunks. The beds are comfy, the air-con is powerful (bring a sweater), there's plenty of space on the top and bottom bunks, and it's a cozy place to be for a long rail journey. Clean linen, blankets and pillows are provided, there's a power outlet and USB charger for electrical devices, and each bed has its own reading light. Although the bottom bunk is slightly more expensive, if your main concern is sleeping, you should opt for the top bunk. This is because when your head is on the pillow on the bottom bunk you can hear and feel every bump on the tracks. My advice is: on a long night train, book the top bunk and enjoy a decent night's sleep; for long journeys during the day, the bottom bunk is better for looking out the window, sitting at the table and working on your laptop. For long-haul rail journeys in Vietnam, such as Saigon→Đà Nẵng, Hanoi→Huế, or Saigon→Hanoi, the 4-bed sleeper class is by far the most comfortable and romantic.

From Vietnam Oracle — see links below

About Luxe

Ho Chi Minh City. Think it's all tanks and tunnels? Wake up and smell the pho. Saigon is still home to elegant boulevards and French-colonial archi but she's the dynamic face of modern Vietnam, rocking foodie kudos, shopportunity and a cosmopolitan vibe.

From the Luxe App Hoi Chi Minh page

What I like about Luxe

  • Not overwhelming – refreshingly short edits
  • Excellent design including map integration meaning it really is a guide in your pocket
  • Every recommendation tried has been great
  • Really good mix from spurge to bargains

Downsides

  • Tends towards the high end
  • Limited coverage in terms of cities
  • Not cheap / priced like a guide book

Sites and blogs on Vietnam I rate

Trains, guides and the writers worth a browse.

Market bike
Petronas Twin Towers rising above KLCC Park at dusk

Destination

Kuala Lumpur

Petronas Twin Towers from KLCC Park at dusk

RouteLondon to KL & Sekinchan
Getting aroundKLIA Ekspres, Grab & transit
HighpointPetronas Skybridge & Jalan Alor

Arrival

Arriving on the overnight flight from London into Kuala Lumpur International Airport, we stepped off into the thick, warm tropical air of early evening. The journey into the city centre could not have been easier. Instead of facing rush hour traffic on the highway, we took the KLIA Ekspres train: a cool, spotless service that covers the 57 kilometres to KL Sentral in just 28 minutes. From there, it was a quick connecting train to KLCC. By 7:30pm we had checked in, unpacked, and stepped straight out into Bukit Bintang to get our bearings in the warm dusk.

Rooftop swimming pool overlooking the city and Menara KL tower
The rooftop pool looking across to the Menara KL tower

Highlights

Kuala Lumpur is a city of vivid contrasts, where gleaming 88-storey skyscrapers sit beside century-old temples and shaded, leafy avenues. Exploring in the early morning before the midday humidity set in quickly became our favourite ritual.

Walking across the double-decker Skybridge of the Petronas Twin Towers at 9am was unforgettable. Standing 170 metres above the park, looking between the steel pinnacles and across the sprawling city below, gave an immediate sense of Malaysia's energy and modern scale.

Just a short Grab ride away in Chinatown, the mood shifts entirely. Along the very same street sits Sri Mahamariamman, the oldest Hindu temple in Malaysia with its vivid five-tier gopuram covered in sculpted deities, and Guan Di Temple, where giant coils of burning incense spiral down from high timber beams. Outside, Petaling Street market was alive with morning stallholders setting up mounds of tropical fruit, loose teas and fabrics.

I loved

  • Petronas Skybridge: stepping out between the towers with the whole city below
  • Sunday Car-Free Morning: cycling wide central avenues in the cool early air
  • Sri Mahamariamman and Chinatown: rich temples, incense coils and vibrant markets
  • Sekinchan day trip: emerald paddy fields, country breeze and sunset seafood
Bright and spacious serviced apartment living area
Our central apartment base in KLCC, perfect for working mornings
Sheltered pool and garden courtyard at Chrisenbel Hideaway Retreat
The peaceful courtyard pool at Chrisenbel Hideaway Retreat in Petaling Jaya

Highpoint: Sekinchan paddy fields

For a total change of scenery from high-rise concrete and neon, we booked a half-day trip northwest into Selangor to visit the coastal farming community of Sekinchan. It turned out to be one of the happiest days of the trip.

Sekinchan Countryside, Paddy Fields and Redang Beach

Coastal Selangor: emerald rice fields, country cycling, working fishing villages and sunset coastal seafood

Selangor west coast excursion

As soon as you leave the suburban fringe, the road opens out into wide, flat plains of brilliant emerald green. We picked up bicycles in the village and pedalled along quiet farm tracks alongside irrigation ditches, watching white egrets swoop across the fields. The air felt fresh and open after the city centre.

Later in the afternoon we called into the fishing village of Bagan to watch the wooden boats coming and going, then moved on to Pantai Redang beach. We sat under the trees eating fresh seafood as the sun sank into the Malacca Strait. It showed a quiet, grounded side of Malaysia that most city visitors never see.

The route and bases

A hub-and-spoke journey: fast train links from KLIA, two distinct city bases in KLCC and Petaling Jaya, and a day trip to Sekinchan.

Best time to go & weather

In early May, Kuala Lumpur sits in the transition into the Southwest Monsoon. The days follow a predictable tropical pattern: clear, sunny mornings with temperatures between 28 and 33 degrees, followed by heavy afternoon downpours and dramatic thunder that clear the humidity before dusk. Once you know the rhythm, it is easy to work around.

Morning7am to 12pm, sunny, best for walking, markets and cycling
Afternoon2pm to 5pm, peak heat and rain bursts, ideal for study or pool
Evening6pm onwards, balmy and dry, perfect for food streets and rooftop drinks

Where we stayed

Because this trip combined city exploration with study and remote work, we split the week across two very different neighbourhoods to experience both sides of Kuala Lumpur life.

For our first three nights we based ourselves at Ascott Kuala Lumpur in the heart of KLCC. Having a two-bedroom executive apartment with a generous living room, kitchen and washing facilities meant we could settle in quickly. The rooftop pool on the high terrace was a standout: swimming in the early morning with the Menara KL tower gleaming above the treetops was completely serene.

Midweek we relocated across to Petaling Jaya to stay at Chrisenbel Hideaway Retreat, near Universiti Malaya where I was attending a healthcare symposium. Tucked away on a quiet residential lane, it offered a peaceful courtyard with a swimming pool, ground-floor garden rooms and lush greenery. It felt worlds away from the high-rise bustle, with birds singing in the courtyard instead of traffic hum.

The nomad rhythm

Balancing travel with remote work can easily feel rushed if you fight the local clock, but the time difference between Malaysia and the UK actually works in your favour. Kuala Lumpur is seven hours ahead of London, which naturally divides the day into two distinct halves.

We kept our mornings entirely free for outdoor sightseeing, temple visits, cycling and photography between 7am and 1pm while the temperature was comfortable. When the midday heat arrived and the afternoon rain clouds rolled in around 2pm, we retreated indoors for quiet study, writing and laptop work.

By 4pm to 7pm local time, the UK working day was just getting underway (9am to 12pm in London), making it effortless to dial into morning calls and sync up with colleagues without interrupting travel. By 7:30pm the laptop was closed, the tropical rain had cleared, and we walked straight out into the evening cool for dinner.

Food highlights

Kuala Lumpur is one of the world's great food cities. Malay, Chinese, and Indian culinary traditions weave together everywhere you look, from open-air night markets to neighbourhood coffee shops.

Jalan Alor in Bukit Bintang is iconic. After 6pm the street pedestrianises into a buzzing feast of red lanterns, smoky charcoal braziers and plastic tables. We had incredible charcoal-grilled chicken wings at Wong Ah Wah, succulent beef and chicken satay skewers from Fat Brother with rich spiced peanut sauce, and grilled stingray smothered in sambal on banana leaves.

Street vendor preparing fresh Nasi Lemak on banana leaves
Fresh Nasi Lemak wrapped in banana leaves at a morning stall

Five dishes you cannot miss

  • 1.Nasi Lemak: The national dish. Fragrant rice steamed in coconut milk and knotted pandan leaves, served with fiery sambal, crispy fried anchovies, roasted peanuts, hard-boiled egg and spiced fried chicken.
  • 2.Char Kway Teow: Flat rice noodles tossed in a scorching wok with dark soy sauce, prawns, egg and bean sprouts, carrying that unmistakable smoky wok hei aroma.
  • 3.Roti Canai: Layered, flaky flatbread spun paper-thin and fried on a flat griddle, served with aromatic dhal or fish curry for dipping at 24-hour neighbourhood mamak stalls.
  • 4.Bak Kut Teh: Tender pork ribs simmered for hours in an aromatic herbal broth infused with star anise, cinnamon, cloves and whole heads of garlic.
  • 5.Cendol: Shaved ice drenched in fresh coconut milk and smoky gula Melaka (palm sugar syrup), topped with pandan jelly noodles. The perfect relief after a hot walk.

For a quieter sit-down meal, we also loved Little Heritage House in Petaling Jaya, which serves authentic Peranakan recipes showcasing the historic fusion of Chinese ingredients with Malay herbs and spices.

Travel tips

Kuala Lumpur is a welcoming, modern city that is very easy to navigate once you understand the transport options and the tropical climate.

Getting around smoothly

Download the Grab app before you arrive. It is Southeast Asia's rideshare service and it works seamlessly in KL. Fares are inexpensive (often only a few pounds across town), vehicles arrive within minutes, and you never have to haggle over meters. For the airport transit, take the KLIA Ekspres train: 28 minutes direct to KL Sentral, completely avoiding the motorway jams.

Plan your outdoor walks and markets early in the morning before 11am. The tropical heat and humidity build rapidly towards midday, and afternoon rain is common.

When visiting temples like Sri Mahamariamman or Batu Caves, dress respectfully with knees and shoulders covered. Modest clothing is required, and you will remove your shoes before stepping inside.

Remember to complete the online Malaysia Digital Arrival Card (MDAC) within three days before your flight. It is free and only takes two minutes on the official immigration portal.

City contrasts

What makes Kuala Lumpur special is how effortlessly hyper-modern glass towers sit against ancient rainforests, lively food alleys and historic colonial squares. You can cycle empty central boulevards on a Sunday morning, explore a peaceful limestone cave temple by noon, and eat barbecue seafood under neon lights by nightfall.

Why it works for working travellers

  • Super-fast Wi-Fi in apartments, cafes and hotels
  • Seven-hour time difference frees up mornings completely
  • Inexpensive transport via Grab and urban rail
  • Warm, hospitable locals and widespread English

Sites and resources on KL I rate

Transit links, guides and writers worth a read.

Destination

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This page is being written. Photographs are sorted, the notes are in a book somewhere, and it will be here shortly.