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From Saigon’s scooter-filled streets to Hoi An, Hue and a kayaking day in Lan Ha Bay. These are my notes from travelling Vietnam mostly by overnight train.
Read the full storyHello, I’m Tara
I travel in all sorts of ways: solo through rural southern China, with friends in Jordan, with family in Marrakech and for two in Lisbon. I started this journal to share the places I loved, what I’d do differently and the practical details I wish I’d known.
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I have had many adventures and it has been great to share a number of them with Tara! Pleased to share places that I have loved with others here.
Jacobijn
One of my favourite things is to explore new countries on my own and I look forward to sharing tips with others.
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I travel a huge amount for work which has taken me well off the beaten path and love to discover new and interesting places.
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I've always enjoyed travel and now we have more flexibility and time are having new adventures in later life and happy to share tips that really make a difference when exploring new places.
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Inspiring adventures for every kind of traveller
Tara Travels was born from a love of exploring the world and sharing the thrills, challenges, and joys of travel. As well as having new experiences, I have been learning more about photography over recent years so it has been a real joy to aim to capture the spirit of these trips.
As well as my own journeys, I am planning to have guest contributions from travelling friends to hear about their adventures.
Travel definitely isn't one-size-fits-all so whether you're dreaming of a backpacking trip at 60, organising a family ski trip, or planning an epic group adventure, I'd like these pages to fuel your wanderlust!
A warm welcome to the site, which is very much a work in progress, but a place I am building to document journeys and recommendations for friends old and new. Do hope that you find it helpful!
Having arrived on the overnight flight from London, then spent the warm day exploring Saigon including dodging scooters and visiting the Reunification Palace, we were footsore by tea time and what a joy it was to have a soothing foot massage. My travelling companion had downloaded the Luxe app which has refreshingly short edits of what to do in key cities and the brilliant and amazingly cheap massage salon was their recommendation. An hour's massage was £11 and those ladies really know what they are doing. We both nodded off in the softly lit room and awoke refreshed to pick up our bags and head to catch the overnight train to Nha Trang.
We did the very popular route but travelled south to north which seems rarer – certainly the guide books always go the other way around. We didn't spend long in Saigon which was I think the right call, leaving us more time to explore elsewhere.
We travelled to Cat Ba and while disappointingly they are busy reclaiming land there so the beach is both out of bounds and covered in diggers, my friend found a kayaking day out on Lan Ha Bay via Seek Sophie which turned out to be the best part of the trip.
Venture Off the Beaten Path: Secret Caves, Kayaking, and a Sunset Beach BBQ
seeksophie.com/experiences/6722With our marvellous guide Chans Tien Anh who had grown up locally among the fishing community, and was passionate about wildlife and nature we went out in a boat, then picked up our individual kayaks and explored the Gulf of Tonkin which is the northern portion of the South China Sea.
It was utterly stunning and tranquil to glide between the karsks at our own pace.
We explored caves and our guide caught fish and crabs, then pulled our boats up to the beach of an island where we barbecued the haul for dinner, with potatoes roasted in foil, as the sun set.
On the way home, we called into one of the floating fishing villages which was fascinating. It was an extraordinarily memorable day and really showed the beauty of Lan Ha and Cat Ba beyond the extensive development activity.
South to north, mostly by overnight train: Saigon, Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi, then out to Cat Ba for Lan Ha Bay.
Vietnam is long enough that it never has one single season. The north is driest and coolest from October to April; the central coast is best from February to August, and can flood heavily in the autumn; the south is dry from December to April. Travelling south to north in November worked well for us, and meant Hoi An after the rains.
There are so many it is hard to pick! Such fresh flavours, wonderful seafood including lobster, and more often chunky prawns, amazing coffee. Try the egg coffee when in Hanoi it is a like a custard and quite delicious. Iced coffees on hot days became quite addictive.
On trips like this, exploring in hot countries, you need to have great footwear. I bought walking sandals specifically for this trip and having scoured websites went for the Corfu from Hotter which were just perfect. Supremely comfortable for all day walking, available in a wide fitting, the back strap makes them far more suitable than Birkinstocks, but they are similar in their simple design. I then wore them for many more trips before buying a second pair as I love them so much!
In Hanoi I picked up some great black fishermen's trousers for £20 that instead of being tied at the waist are sewn like that and they have become my travelling trousers of choice and with a linen vest, I lived in these and my sandals in China, Marrakesh and Jordan.
We took two overnight trains which were great. Note that often these will arrive at 6am and you usually can't check in to your room till much later like 2pm. Because accommodation is great value we decided to book for the previous night meaning we did have morning room access which I would highly recommend. We really appreciated it.
Also we took the advice from the Vietnam Oracle train website and opted for the 4 beds sleepers and booking the top bunks as less rail noise and think that is sound advice. With silicon ear plugs we slept well.
4-Bed Sleeper
The most comfortable class on Vietnam's trains, these sleeper compartments have 4 beds in a private cabin arranged in two rows of bunks. The beds are comfy, the air-con is powerful (bring a sweater), there's plenty of space on the top and bottom bunks, and it's a cozy place to be for a long rail journey. Clean linen, blankets and pillows are provided, there's a power outlet and USB charger for electrical devices, and each bed has its own reading light. Although the bottom bunk is slightly more expensive, if your main concern is sleeping, you should opt for the top bunk. This is because when your head is on the pillow on the bottom bunk you can hear and feel every bump on the tracks. My advice is: on a long night train, book the top bunk and enjoy a decent night's sleep; for long journeys during the day, the bottom bunk is better for looking out the window, sitting at the table and working on your laptop. For long-haul rail journeys in Vietnam, such as Saigon→Đà Nẵng, Hanoi→Huế, or Saigon→Hanoi, the 4-bed sleeper class is by far the most comfortable and romantic.
From Vietnam Oracle — see links below
Ho Chi Minh City. Think it's all tanks and tunnels? Wake up and smell the pho. Saigon is still home to elegant boulevards and French-colonial archi but she's the dynamic face of modern Vietnam, rocking foodie kudos, shopportunity and a cosmopolitan vibe.
From the Luxe App Hoi Chi Minh page
Trains, guides and the writers worth a browse.
Arriving on the overnight flight from London into Kuala Lumpur International Airport, we stepped off into the thick, warm tropical air of early evening. The journey into the city centre could not have been easier. Instead of facing rush hour traffic on the highway, we took the KLIA Ekspres train: a cool, spotless service that covers the 57 kilometres to KL Sentral in just 28 minutes. From there, it was a quick connecting train to KLCC. By 7:30pm we had checked in, unpacked, and stepped straight out into Bukit Bintang to get our bearings in the warm dusk.
Kuala Lumpur is a city of vivid contrasts, where gleaming 88-storey skyscrapers sit beside century-old temples and shaded, leafy avenues. Exploring in the early morning before the midday humidity set in quickly became our favourite ritual.
Walking across the double-decker Skybridge of the Petronas Twin Towers at 9am was unforgettable. Standing 170 metres above the park, looking between the steel pinnacles and across the sprawling city below, gave an immediate sense of Malaysia's energy and modern scale.
Just a short Grab ride away in Chinatown, the mood shifts entirely. Along the very same street sits Sri Mahamariamman, the oldest Hindu temple in Malaysia with its vivid five-tier gopuram covered in sculpted deities, and Guan Di Temple, where giant coils of burning incense spiral down from high timber beams. Outside, Petaling Street market was alive with morning stallholders setting up mounds of tropical fruit, loose teas and fabrics.
For a total change of scenery from high-rise concrete and neon, we booked a half-day trip northwest into Selangor to visit the coastal farming community of Sekinchan. It turned out to be one of the happiest days of the trip.
Coastal Selangor: emerald rice fields, country cycling, working fishing villages and sunset coastal seafood
Selangor west coast excursionAs soon as you leave the suburban fringe, the road opens out into wide, flat plains of brilliant emerald green. We picked up bicycles in the village and pedalled along quiet farm tracks alongside irrigation ditches, watching white egrets swoop across the fields. The air felt fresh and open after the city centre.
Later in the afternoon we called into the fishing village of Bagan to watch the wooden boats coming and going, then moved on to Pantai Redang beach. We sat under the trees eating fresh seafood as the sun sank into the Malacca Strait. It showed a quiet, grounded side of Malaysia that most city visitors never see.
A hub-and-spoke journey: fast train links from KLIA, two distinct city bases in KLCC and Petaling Jaya, and a day trip to Sekinchan.
In early May, Kuala Lumpur sits in the transition into the Southwest Monsoon. The days follow a predictable tropical pattern: clear, sunny mornings with temperatures between 28 and 33 degrees, followed by heavy afternoon downpours and dramatic thunder that clear the humidity before dusk. Once you know the rhythm, it is easy to work around.
Because this trip combined city exploration with study and remote work, we split the week across two very different neighbourhoods to experience both sides of Kuala Lumpur life.
For our first three nights we based ourselves at Ascott Kuala Lumpur in the heart of KLCC. Having a two-bedroom executive apartment with a generous living room, kitchen and washing facilities meant we could settle in quickly. The rooftop pool on the high terrace was a standout: swimming in the early morning with the Menara KL tower gleaming above the treetops was completely serene.
Midweek we relocated across to Petaling Jaya to stay at Chrisenbel Hideaway Retreat, near Universiti Malaya where I was attending a healthcare symposium. Tucked away on a quiet residential lane, it offered a peaceful courtyard with a swimming pool, ground-floor garden rooms and lush greenery. It felt worlds away from the high-rise bustle, with birds singing in the courtyard instead of traffic hum.
Balancing travel with remote work can easily feel rushed if you fight the local clock, but the time difference between Malaysia and the UK actually works in your favour. Kuala Lumpur is seven hours ahead of London, which naturally divides the day into two distinct halves.
We kept our mornings entirely free for outdoor sightseeing, temple visits, cycling and photography between 7am and 1pm while the temperature was comfortable. When the midday heat arrived and the afternoon rain clouds rolled in around 2pm, we retreated indoors for quiet study, writing and laptop work.
By 4pm to 7pm local time, the UK working day was just getting underway (9am to 12pm in London), making it effortless to dial into morning calls and sync up with colleagues without interrupting travel. By 7:30pm the laptop was closed, the tropical rain had cleared, and we walked straight out into the evening cool for dinner.
Kuala Lumpur is one of the world's great food cities. Malay, Chinese, and Indian culinary traditions weave together everywhere you look, from open-air night markets to neighbourhood coffee shops.
Jalan Alor in Bukit Bintang is iconic. After 6pm the street pedestrianises into a buzzing feast of red lanterns, smoky charcoal braziers and plastic tables. We had incredible charcoal-grilled chicken wings at Wong Ah Wah, succulent beef and chicken satay skewers from Fat Brother with rich spiced peanut sauce, and grilled stingray smothered in sambal on banana leaves.
For a quieter sit-down meal, we also loved Little Heritage House in Petaling Jaya, which serves authentic Peranakan recipes showcasing the historic fusion of Chinese ingredients with Malay herbs and spices.
Kuala Lumpur is a welcoming, modern city that is very easy to navigate once you understand the transport options and the tropical climate.
Getting around smoothly
Download the Grab app before you arrive. It is Southeast Asia's rideshare service and it works seamlessly in KL. Fares are inexpensive (often only a few pounds across town), vehicles arrive within minutes, and you never have to haggle over meters. For the airport transit, take the KLIA Ekspres train: 28 minutes direct to KL Sentral, completely avoiding the motorway jams.
Plan your outdoor walks and markets early in the morning before 11am. The tropical heat and humidity build rapidly towards midday, and afternoon rain is common.
When visiting temples like Sri Mahamariamman or Batu Caves, dress respectfully with knees and shoulders covered. Modest clothing is required, and you will remove your shoes before stepping inside.
Remember to complete the online Malaysia Digital Arrival Card (MDAC) within three days before your flight. It is free and only takes two minutes on the official immigration portal.
What makes Kuala Lumpur special is how effortlessly hyper-modern glass towers sit against ancient rainforests, lively food alleys and historic colonial squares. You can cycle empty central boulevards on a Sunday morning, explore a peaceful limestone cave temple by noon, and eat barbecue seafood under neon lights by nightfall.
Transit links, guides and writers worth a read.
Destination
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